When I think of the word “uniformity,” I can’t help but think back to cultural artifacts with a sartorial theme, like Orwell’s 1984. I see men and women working in factories; they’re walking the streets of a dystopian world wearing identical jumpsuits, solely distinguished by their physical features instead of their clothing. Today, men and women’s fashion has progressed so much that unisex clothing has become uncanny. Saville Row trained tailor Paula Gerbasse founded 1205 in 2010, deciding to create a label built on her aesthetic principles, namely, of quality of cut and fabric. Influenced by geometry, elegance of nature, and ultimately, reinterpreting construction with asymmetry and new shapes, 1205 refuses to “distinguish between a man’s or a woman’s timeless uniform.”
As I watch 1205’s London Fashion Week autumn winter 2014 show, I can’t help but picture every item a female or male model wears on the opposite sex. It’s fascinating; it’s entertaining; it’s mind-boggling. How one look can translate seamlessly from one sex to another is Gerbasse’s reinterpretation manifested. An overcoat from this collection would look just as great on my boyfriend as on myself. Quilted wool tapered trousers, boucle oversized t-shirts, wool-fishing jumpers: the idea of a unisex wardrobe is fully realized in this collection. These silhouettes embrace both sexes, providing them a classic and relaxed fit.
The collection pulls the most notable aspects of both mens and womenswear. Generous cuts, simplicity, and comfort of menswear combine with feminine details to suit womenswear. One can see the masculine side of the collection with heavier pieces: the overcoat, beanies, and signature black loafers that all the models trod in during LFW. On the other hand, the feminine side is prominently noted by the details: aubergine trimming, décolletage v-necks, bottom-baring striped tees, and cropped ankle pants. The color story is ultimately the tie that brings x and y together. A clean-clear vision for the colorstory with hints of austerity and integrity. Grey, white, black, and navy unite with aubergines and crimson. Together these colors create a beautiful AW palette, especially for unisex.
What makes 1205 so fresh is the originality: no plastered labels, models painted to the tens, or impractical cuts. Every piece is wearable, and may I add, incredibly cozy and chic. What is truly game-changing about 1205 is the fact that each piece is genuinely flattering on both sexes. With an extraordinarily effective vision for a unisex collection, 1205 creates an androgynous line that the characters of 1984 wish they could wear.
1205 AW14 Collection (see stockists):