Paris-based Damir Doma decided to move to Milan to present his collection. Perhaps the avant-garde master wanted to take his roots and penetrate a younger demographic in an area that is normally dominated by the “OG’s” of fashion (Prada, Gucci, etc). And on this day, the power of edgy classicism of the new age took Italy by storm.
Entitled “Prima Aria,” Damir Doma’s Spring 2016 collection drew inspiration from the Earth. Simple, monochromatic and to the point, the collection is characterized by elongated shapes that result in his infamous ever-so-flowing silhouettes that accentuate one’s physical frame. Unparalleled in the integration of texture, tailoring that is as strict as they come is on display. A white shirt flaunted a drooping collar equipped with extended sleeves and curved side hems which in turn created a boxy aesthetic. Cotton and raw linen were made into overcoats and tunics that were worn over rough-weave shirts. Bottoms were either sporty with drop-crotch details or straight legged, and Bermuda shorts were of note that came in the form of raw linen or paper-like cotton.
While Damir Doma isn’t one to use a bright color palette or do something shocking (such as sending near naked models down his runway), he pushes the limit with menswear by taking a minimalist approach and showing only knits and refusing to elaborate on anything more than that. Rawness entwined with a sensitive form of masculinity, this collection certainly left its mark on Milan.