Matthew-Miller-SS16-11

The Best of Capsule Spring/Summer 2016 NYFWM

Men, Fashion, Runway

A tradeshow for emerging designers of contemporary menswear, Capsule aimed at presenting “a snapshot of modern menswear” by gathering seven of the best designers in the world and featuring pieces from their Spring/Summer 2016 collections, a unique initiative in honor of the debut of New York Men’s Fashion Week. Here, we give you a snapshot of a few of the exciting brands that were on display.

Design duo Wouter Baartmans and Amber Siegel of British label Baartmans & Siegel found a sweet spot by incorporating a bit of edge and deconstruction into clean and modern silhouettes for a collection that screamed slick hair, 70s western style and luxurious loungewear. Slashed jeans were paired with wide lapel button downs while slightly destroyed bleached denim jackets featured wrecked pockets. Baartmans & Siegel’s latest, however, wasn’t anything less than polished highlighting pristinely tailored sports coats and dusters that were layered over crisp tops.

Eight-year-old Italian brand CAMO is a testament to the timelessness of hard work and detail. An artisanal label, all the pieces are produced in traditional Italian workshops in designer Stefano Ughetti’s small hometown of Biella. Despite his determination to stay close to his roots, Ughetti’s takes a progressive look at designing, with this collection finding its inspiration in modern, oversized looks, such as a white v-neck t-shirt under a wide cardigan and navy blue trousers as well as a light grey t-shirt paired with loose Bermuda shorts.

Designers Saif Bakir and Emma Hedlund of London-based brand CMMN SWDN was inspired by the conflict they noticed between the art and commerce of fashion, therefore developing a collection titled “Genuine Fake” and used the premise to create distorted shapes and silhouettes

to explore various body shapes. Adding to the Swedish minimalisms and hard-edged London flare that CMMN SWDN is most commonly known for, the models appeared fresh faced and somber, wearing shorts, high-waist calf length pants, asymmetrical button down tops and square-toed ankle boots. The mustard yellow hems and geometric appliqued designs gave the collection a mature touch, all too reminiscent of the famous paintings from artists Nicolas de Staël, Albert Glizes and Tayeb Metha.

2005 marked the beginning of the partnership between Nin Troung and Christa Thomas. Based in Seattle, their line Maiden Noir takes pride in its ability to tell a story. This season’s “Remember Remember” collection tells the story of vacation memories with its navy canvas running shoes with white laces, windbreakers and sunglasses. To complete the looks were navy blue Bermuda shorts, a white fleece pull over that zips half way down, and khaki slacks. This collection was the epitome of the archetype of an American tourist.

Last but not least, designer Matthew Miller presented a collection for his eponymous label that may seem superficial but is loaded with an undercurrent of social commentary. itled “Uni-formal Chaos”, the collection comments on the expectations and rigidity of mainstream fashion and the frustration and destructivity it causes in the designers. He fights this conformity with a dystopian, rebellious collection reminiscent of Brave New World or 1984 with long, dark overcoats that elude to a sense of mystery as well as straight blazers and sweaters of an androgynous style. Though he claims to not be an artist, his designs seem to prove otherwise.

 

Baartmans and Siegel

CMMN SWDN

CAMO

Matthew Miller

Maiden Noir

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