Influenced by The Mongoliad, Alexandre Plokhov sent “Chapters” in the form of colors (‘Black Prologue, Crimson Chapter, Light Sulfur Chapter and Optic White Epilogue) that set the tone for a monochromatic dressing for the collection. Over-dyed materials and patchwork showed Plokhov’s skilled hand. Extreme silhouettes that often contrasted were of note, as well as the all black ensembles.
Cadet continues to take their love of post-war militaristic wares and make some ultra cool separates. Outerwear was the name of the game, and blazers, vests and trench coats with stripes all were accented with leather-perforated and backpack-inspired strap belts, fanny packs and horn-shaped necklaces. The big surprise and the most daring of the looks was the Top Gun-esque jumpsuit.
Geometric designs and architecture entwined for David Hart’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection, with some Cuban flair and Art Deco style. Bold prints and two-toned eyewear kept true to the classic Bauhaus principles, and geometric lines juxtaposed double-breasted suits, ankle pants and more.
Paying homage to his roots, Robert Geller takes the windy summers of his youth with water, wind and the billowing sails that he grew up by in Hamburg and turns it into wares. Fabrics are sun bleached and crackle-like textures are seen on blazers, shirts and trousers along with the signature ‘Robert Geller’ roping (wearing a roped belt on top of an open jacket). One of the highlights and newest items was Geller’s introduction of bags, which was done in collaboration with Japanese brand SIWA.
Vietnam-inspired, John Elliott‘s cold and pale color palette with military references was his most conceptual to date. Olive, white blue and gray tones with layering being the game that was played was seen. Silhouettes were familiar however the washed-out tones and a diversified group of textures gave each piece a new type of a feel.