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REWIND: The Week In Review

Women, Men, Fashion

AUGUST 16, 2015

TECTONIC: CHARLES YOUSSEF Autumn/Winter 2015 COLLECTION

After a decorated education, which included the elite Parsons School of Design and Central Saint Martins, as well as a slew of diverse experiences with the biggest names in fashion, womenswear designer Charles Youssef finally settled on New York City as the home for his eponymous label. Established in 2015, the Lebanese native was inspired by the “Magic Hour” light installation by artist David Batchelor and architect Tadao Ando’s staircase designs for his Autumn/Winter 2015 collection titled “Tectonic.”

TEXTILE PLAY: ARTHUR ARBESSER Fall/Winter 2015 COLLECTION

Arthur Arbesser’s sleek, retro-pop sensibilities combined with his meticulous attention to textile has paved the path to his burgeoning career in design. By 2012, his eponymous label was born, and in a place where Arbesser could maintain access to a plethora of textile factories — something vital to his brand, as he focuses greatly on fabrications. The rest is history: Arbesser went on to win Vogue Italia and Altaroma’s competition “Who is on Next?” with his second collection, and was recently nominated for the upcoming LVMH Prize in 2015. For his Fall/Winter 2015 collection, Arbesser paid homage to his heritage with a contemporary take on the debutante ball.

AUGUST 17, 2015

BOURIE FALL/WINTER 2015 COLLECTION

While some designers are busy apologizing for too much femininity or color, BOURIE was busy kicking it up a notch, keeping us all on our strong and delicate toes. Where one sees soft melancholy, another will see painstaking craftsmanship. There are no typical tropes to be spotted, no loud gimmicks and no usual maneuvers above the knee. Rather, cuts, lines and fissures on every silhouette flirts dangerously on the edge of timeless virtuosity. Turn around, and there behind you will be a line cut so deep into the fabric, it’s almost as if the designer is aching to reveal a long lost secret. For the Fall/Winter 2015 collection, Bourie leaves everything to the imagination, and everything beyond the imagination.

SUNGHO KIM’S 2015 THESIS COLLECTION: ANTI-AESTHETICS AND A RETURN TO SINCERE FUNCTION

The impasse of art and accessibility is so rarely achieved in the form of design, function andrelevant practicality, but Sungho Kim, who honorably accepted the title of Parsons Menswear Designer of the Year in June, has further championed this impasse by garnering serviceability in making productive, sincere and wearable clothing. Inspired by the memory of dressing his ailing grandmother, Kim’s thesis collection aptly pays homage to his familial ties by encoding precious layers on top of oversized shapes and silhouettes.

AUGUST 18, 2015

A COHESIVE WHOLE: MICHAEL SONTAG Fall/Winter 2015 collection

Proportions took the front seat for Berlin based Michael Sontag, who views his collections as cohesive instead of as separate entities. This sort of fluidity is prevalent in the offerings, creating unity from season to season that other designers may often ignore. By avoiding trends, the designer is able to afford a timeless elegance that is desired but hardly found. Sontag has found this namely in the form of fluid silhouettes, expert pleating and rouching as well as in an effortless sort of grace seen in sensitively draped dresses and skirt. For his Autumn/Winter 2015 collection, there were slightly oversized sweaters, which featured the perfect amount of structure, cascading and flowing skirts and black braided tassels shaped into lines leading the eye down many assembles.

VIBRANT EFFEMINACY FOR EDIT’S Fall/Winter 2015 COLLECTION

There were so many reasons why the EDIT Fall/Winter 2015 collection defies the fashion industry norms. Originally a small concept store founded by an architect and an accountant, the Hong Kong originated label is slowly becoming the new go-to among the cool kids of fashion. With the introduction of its Fall/Winter 2015 collection, we continue to see a distinguished and impeccable ability to mix relaxed masculine with modern feminine styles in its selection of sophisticated signature staples.

AUGUST 19, 2015

REDEFINING AMERICAN SPORTSWEAR: A CHAT WITH NYC DESIGN DUO PUBLIC SCHOOL

What happened as an accident, in response to designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne’s need for excitement in the apparel market, quickly turned into a never-ending roller coaster of seven years—and counting—of immensely hard work and hustle. Neither member of the New York City born-and-bred duo collect a check from Public School, holding firm to the fact that the goal is not to be comfortable but to follow your dream and believe that it will succeed. And while Public School’s successes continue to mount, the humility and authenticity that emanates from them is astounding, even after a handful of failed attempts and years of living a formidable lifestyle.

THE SUBVERSIVE COCKTAIL: ORDINARY PEOPLE Autumn/Winter 2015 COLLECTION

Clean lines and simple “on the court” staples come together in a flurry of conscious design for Ordinary People’s Autumn/Winter 2015 collection. A mix of chic jerseys and tailored outerwear come to define the Korean brand’s offering this season. Perhaps the gold lame letters proclaiming “ordinary people 24/7” speak volumes more about the brand than anything else. It’s this simple sentiment that hits you that these pieces cross the line between high-end sportswear and wearable staples.

AUGUST 20, 2015

PANACHE OVERDOSE BY MARCUS COOPER

The Panache Overdose Editorial was shot by Marcus Cooper featuring models Powell Bednareck and Marius in designs from the Rob Garcia Autumn/Winter 2015 collection, and eyewear from Lucky Selectism.

WEST COAST CHIC: CWST AUTUMN/WINTER 2015 COLLECTION

Low-key luxury and “surfcore” fashion come into full blossom with West Coast label CWST (pronounced as quest), driven and inspired by the pacific man and a laid-back lifestyle. The duo behind the Cali-based brand, Derek Buse and Joe Sadler, are no strangers to design — having previously been known by the name “Riviera Club” and subsequently receiving nods from GQ and the CFDA for Best New Menswear Designer in 2011. Following some minor trademark issues, the two resurfaced as CWST. CWST is made exclusively in the USA, supporting the tradition of local manufacturing, which more often than not implies impeccable craftsmanship. For CWST, this is no exception. Buse and Sadler exemplify a soft tailoring which exudes effortless chic; CWST is chock-full of traditional menswear silhouettes alongside slouchy pullovers and shirts. Enter: a redefinition of West Coast style as it asserts contemporary finesse.

AUGUST 21, 2015

COLLECTOR ITEMS: PLANET CIPHER’S AUTUMN/WINTER 2015 COLLECTION

Hand crafted, exclusive and straight from Tuscany, the Italian-based footwear brand Planet Cipher opened its doors in 2012, taking inspiration from Far East Asia. Their name furthers their cultural exploration as “Cipher” is derived from the Ancient Arabic word sifr meaning nothing, no one or zero, representing the uniqueness of the brand’s pieces. The extremely limited supply — only several pieces of each designs are produced every season — and the fact that there is no figurehead to the brand, allows the designers the freedom to define the brand.

AUGUST 22, 2015

P.S. I LOVE YOU – PUBLIC SCHOOL EDITORIAL BY GUS & LO

Shot by Gus & Lo, the P.S. I Love You Editorial features designs by Public School Spring/Summer 2015 collection on model Graham Reese.

MAIKEL TAWADROS SPRING/SUMMER 2016 COLLECTION COPENHAGEN

A knack for combining pieces with warrior like armor alongside strongly feminine garments, Maikel Tawadros Spring/Summer 2016 collection, amply titled “Bionic”, delivered a new take on the idea of mechanical strength. A combination of asymmetrical hems, striking leather accents and oversized chevron come to define the devilish world of his Copenhagen Fashion Week presentation.

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