DZHUS-AW15-16

The Intersectionality of War and Fashion According to DZHUS

Women, Fashion

DZHUS, a vegetarian-friendly brand, was created in 2010 by Ukrainian designer Irina Dzhus. In her Autumn/Winter 2015 collection, “Totaltarian,” she continues her animal-friendly crusade by focusing on creating innovative concepts in a distinctive and unconventional matter. Despite using violence-free materials, which in this collection included wool, felt, knit and cotton, Dzhus’ assemblage of crisp futuristic designs are based on the political regimes of the first and second World Wars. There is a sense of strong individuality in her line of architectural silhouettes, starting from the way she utilized sharp geometrical pleats to the angular cuts in her garments. The raw hemlines and exposed seam allowances, which accented the austere silhouettes, gave her collection a modern appeal. The assemblage of muted grey and black tones was brought to life with fold-felt details and black piping. Adding to the strict, militaristic visage of this body of work was the back panels of tops, which extended to form pointed hoods, an example of the technical sensibilities that Dzhus is precisely known for.

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