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REWIND: The Week In Review

Women, Men, Fashion

AUGUST 23, 2015

AN OBSCURE SENSIBILITY: SIMON EKRELIUS AUTUMN/ WINTER 2015 COLLECTION

Oftentimes the most innovative of designers exist in the space between past, present and future finding inspiration for their own style in a place that subsists solely for them. So is the case for London-based designer Simon Ekrelius and his Autumn/Winter 2015 collection. The Swedish educated designer has found a place where obscure notes intermingle with expert precision, creating an arrangement that is both beautiful and intimidating in its grandeur. This is found in pieces that are both minimal and intentional, sans the boring often found in this sort of simplicity.

AUGUST 24, 2015

FUTURISTIC MINIMALISM: ISABELLA CORELL SPRING/ SUMMER 2016

Where do neon lights and clean, futuristic white silhouettes find common ground? In Isabella Corell’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection. The designer, who graduated from the Fashion Design Academy in Copenhagen, Denmark, turned towards the light for inspiration, in this case through high-waist, pleated trousers, knit vests with gill-like accents and matching cropped sets with optic white detailing. Although a mind facing towards the future can be dismissed in the present, thanks to Corell’s simple lines, immaculate tailoring and inventive designs, her pieces will not be passed over in the present.

A NONCHALANT NARRATIVE: MELINDA GLOSS SPRING/SUMMER 2016 COLLECTION

Everyday scenes are the inspiration for the precisely tranquil world of Melinda Gloss. The brand’s latest offering is modest in its elegance, which is exactly how designers Remi de Laquintane and Mathieu de Menonvile like it. An air of nonchalance is present in their Spring/Summer 2016 collection, found through the exploration of classic 70s shapes, namely in thickly striped cropped shorts, denim pleated trousers and sleek loafers.

AUGUST 25, 2015

EXPOSING INNER BEAUTY: JOOYOUNG KIM GRADUATE COLLECTION

Hailing from South Korea, Parsons graduate Jooyoung Kim was not always interested in fashion design: he first majored in Industrial Engineering before focusing on fashion. Having worked in New York’s Garment District and interning at Thom Browne on both the men’s and women’s teams, the young designer fostered an appreciation for tailoring, evident in his splendidly inimitable collection for his graduate thesis at Parsons. Playful organza in shades of soft electric blues, mellow magenta purples and light jade greens are found on tailored pieces in what Kim has entitled, “Translucent Beauty.”

DESIGNERS’ NEST AWARD WINNERS ANNOUNCED DURING COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

Established in 2014 by HRH Crown Princess Mary, the Designer’s Nest Award — a competition that is held during the bi-annual Copenhagen Fashion Week — was created to reward highly talented and promising design students with the gift of a cash prize to assist in the formation of their label and/or furthering their design education. For the Spring/Summer 2016 competition, Sweden-based Sara Lundberg, a graduate of the Swedish School of Textiles, was given the top prize for her work, “which involves elements you do not quite understand at first,” says of the winner.

AUGUST 26, 2015

A CHAT WITH

OF NYC’S HOMIC

Joshua Homic walks around his studio ceremoniously dressed in all black. There’s buoyancy in his step and presence. His light eyes dart around at his current creations with a kind, Cheshire cat smile pasted lovingly on his face. For someone who has had so much happen in one fevered instant, he’s managed to retain wonder, heady imagination and an uncanny Zen-like calm. The charm that we find in Homic doesn’t come from his innovation, aesthetic utility or unisex silhouettes; it lies in the qualities of an emerging designer constantly learning, living, breathing and aching to achieve his singular vision.

DUAL WORLDS: XCONCEPT AUTUMN/WINTER 2015 COLLECTION

Dually based in Italy and Bali, XConcept is a brand that tells a story of independence and freedom. Tuscan designer Geno Bensi first conceived the core notion of the brand in 2008, while in Bali. The line aims to blend contemporary Eastern styles with the styles of urban Western culture to create progressive and wearable looks in androgynous shapes and monochromatic colors. The Autumn/Winter 2015 collection combines the well-established history of Japanese Samurai warriors, with the yet undiscovered boundaries of Space.

AUGUST 27, 2015

RUGGED FLUIDITY: JONATHAN CHRISTOPHER HOMME SPRING/SUMMER 2016

Dutch designer Jonathan Christopher Hofwegen of Jonathan Christopher Homme only made his debut at Amsterdam Fashion Week a year ago, but he has been making huge splashes in the world of design: he was chosen by Marc Jacobs for the Design for Tomorrow Berlin competition in 2011, was one of the twelve finalists for Knlack/Le Vig Fashion Weekend in Brussels and works freelance for brands such as Karl Lagerfeld and the like. Hofwegen experiments on the juxtapositions in life to which he is drawn: “masculine and feminine, light and dark, soft and harsh.” His pieces are said to use delicate romantic draping against a hard shell of tailoring, with a definitively androgynous aesthetic. The Spring/Summer 2016 collection dances between these lines, with intentionally rugged seams and loose but sleek garments gracing the collection.

THE FUTURE OF GOTH:

SPRING/SUMMER 2016

Individuality is more than just a defining word for Stockholm-based brand Army of Me; founders Daniel Wahlberg and Richard Sjoblom have built their label on being different, combining classic designs from the west with avant-garde fashions from the east. The duo began in 2008 with a collection of merely eight styles with just 20 pieces being produced for each. Fast-forward to the present, and Army of Me is presenting at Amsterdam Fashion Week for their Spring/Summer 2016 collection. The latest is expectedly monochrome, but lack of surprise does not bring disappointment: blacks and grays blend perfectly onto the surplus of elongated tops which border on becoming dresses, while texture play comes in the form of leather, mesh and other soft blends in layers.

AUGUST 28, 2015

CLOUDS OF CHROME: WANDA NYLON AUTUMN/WINTER 2015 COLLECTION

Technology inspired aesthetic is taking the face of fashion and molding it into something new, and no house represents this quite like Wanda Nylon. For the Paris based label’s latest offering, inspiration came from “technical materials infused with a strong design vision.” The brand’s sartorial success is due to their ability to follow this notion forward and to manifest it so accurately. For Wanda Nylon’s Autumn/Winter 2015 menswear collection, quilted teal jackets are crafted to look as if they’re layered, urging on the exploration of where utilitarian and style merge

THE INTERSECTIONALITY OF WAR AND FASHION ACCORDING TO DZHUS

DZHUS, a vegetarian-friendly brand, was created in 2010 by Ukrainian designer Irina Dzhus. In her Autumn/Winter 2015 collection, “Totaltarian,” she continues her animal-friendly crusade by focusing on creating innovative concepts in a distinctive and unconventional matter. Despite using violence-free materials, which in this collection included wool, felt, knit and cotton, Dzhus’ assemblage of crisp futuristic designs are based on the political regimes of the first and second World Wars.

AUGUST 29, 2015 

Avant-Garde Supremacy: 50 Shades of Grey by Brent Chua

Shot by renown photographer Brent Chua, models Callum Ward (New York Models) and Sam Visserf (RE:QUEST) donned apparel by Homic’s Spring/Summer 2015 collection.

Temptation vs Restriction: Shen Zhang’s Graduate Collection

A recent graduate of Parsons School of Design, Shen Zhang presented for her senior thesis a Spring/Summer 2016 collection set of designs acutely inspired by recent events in her own life. After facing a breakup due to cultural and religious differences, Zhang plunged into working on this senior project collection taking vision from her previous partner’s Islamic background, which resulted in a a monochrome collection complete in turquoise, a color prominent in Islam and the Middle East that is commonly used to make jewelry. Designing to cope with this difficult breakup, Zhang dedicated her time to this collection with no measure of hard work left exempt, including taking full course loads, summer classes, internships and working overnight to put together one of Spring/Summer 2016’s most memorable student collections.

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