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REWIND: The Week in Review

Women, Men, Fashion

AUGUST 30, 2015

BLANK ETIQUETTE AUTUMN/WINTER 2015: FREEDOM ON ITS OWN TERMS

Freedom of expression and self-discovery has always been humanity’s impetus. It allows for innumberable pathways towards creativity, function and reinvention. What Tosca Wyss of the Berlin-based label Blank Etiquette found early in her life was that she was forced to rethink the confines of living a free, creative life. Her freedom of expression was stifled while her formative years were spent being force-fed to be a so-called creative, when in fact, she just wasn’t ready.  Fast forward, and we see that Wyss has certainly been given the chance to illustrate her new found freedom. Her dedication and drive has birthed quality combinations of unique colors, patterns, textures and shapes that create seasonless and timeless collections.

AUGUST 31, 2015

THE SOFT SIDE OF HARD: CÉDRIC JACQUEMYN AUTUMN/WINTER 2015

Born in the year of 1987 in Antwerp, Cédric Jacquemyn has developed a dark romantic menswear aesthetic into a ready-to-wear mecca that showcases garments, jewelry and bags. Graduating from the Academy in 2010, Jacquemyn started his own label and showed at Paris, Berlin, London and Copenhagen fashion weeks, however he remains deeply rooted in Antwerp. Jacquemyn’s work is all about the senses. For touch, garments that flow with a certain historical and mythical significance are produced by sculpting natural fibres. Showing off his skills as a sartorial tailor, Jacquemyn’s Autumn/Winter 2015 collection starts at the root of cloth and construction by taking perfect cuts with great fabrics and combining these two superpowers into wares.

SEPTEMBER 1, 2015

ARTOMIC: XCONCEPT’S SPRING/SUMMER 2016 COLLECTION

For the Spring/Summer 2016 collection, designer Geno Bensi of label XConcept reinvented a new avatar of the brand’s signature warrior, this time in the form of a world traveler. The Tuscan mastermind behind the Florence and Bali based company designed unisex pieces, a commonality of the brand, in looks such as wool and cotton tunics with asymmetrical hems and slim fitted and loose, cropped pants.

SEPTEMBER 2, 2015

A NATURALISTIC SPLENDOR: JENEVIEVE LYONS SPRING/SUMMER 2016 COLLECTION

Gentle doesn’t mean weak, a notion that Jenevieve Lyons is all too familiar with. The South African based designer has dived headfirst into the exploration between refined and feminine, masculine and grand, for her Spring/Summer 2016 collection. Lyons is in the game of “telling parables through fashion” and having ideas and notions stemming from her designs, which is obvious in her latest presentation.

A CHAT WITH SUSTAINABLE LABEL BEHNO

Behno has given the term “Made in India” a new mission and renewed life to the global sphere. This is not a story about emerging design, but one of awakened ideals, sustainable methods, and 21st century design ethos. Behno (Hindi for ‘Sisters) is India’s mother of ethical fashion reinvention. Founder Shivam Punjya and head-designer Ashley Austin have turned a modern atrocity into something positive, highlighting the way fashion must re-think labor, cost, and sustainable fabrics. The backdrop for their latest collection is set in Chandigarh, India, a city known to house Le Corbusier’s most risk-taking works and home to India’s first modernist city. Systematic, cinematic, yet traditional, Behno has enmeshed traditional Indian tailoring with a balanced mixture of utility and modern, minimalist silhouettes. When not taking inspiration from a country on the verge of millennial enlightenment, the Behno team prides itself on it’s own original ethical standards; garment worker mobility, family planning, and women’s rights. This ‘Behno Standard’ is a benchmark, zeitgeist move that many emerging designers and brands, we predict, will implement into their own business DNA. Traditional and transformative, it’s not about the market, but a world way overdue for the ethical endeavors Behno delivers to emerging design.

SEPTEMBER 3, 2015

SUBTLE SEDUCTION: JOVANA MARKOVIC RESORT 2016

Born in Belgrade, Jovana Markovic began to present her collections in 2007 at Belgrade Fashion Week. Since making her debut, she has regularly presented her works to an international audience at the Belgrade and fashion weeks and her collections are often featured in editorials as well as advertisements in Serbia fashion publications. In 2010, Markovic opened up her own store, which serves as a foundation for her brand. Following this, she won the Textil young designer award at Belgrade fashion week for her 2012 Winter collection, and she also won the Elle fashion award for her 2013 Winter collection. Her style combines luxury and sophistication that comes with a youthful, natural edge. For Resort 2016, Jovana Markovic took tailoring along with femininity to a whole new level: working predominately with a monochromatic color scheme — think black, white, gray and pops of blue and purple, the collection’s shapes were the true showstoppers.

EAST OF WILLIAMSBURG BY NICK EUCKER EDITORIAL

The East of Williamsburg editorial was shot by Nick Eucker, featuring model Kat O’Brien in pieces by Layana Aguilar, styled by Karolina Borchert-Hunter.

SEPTEMBER 4, 2015

THE GOOD, LOST GIRL: BOURIE SPRING/SUMMER 2016

Originally studying classic music composition, Grace Jo made the daring jump to study fashion design after one semester. Why? A semester abroad in New York City made her change her mind. Upon returning to Korea, Jo transferred to the Samsung Art and Design Institute where she graduated in 2009. In 2011, she attended Academie Internationale Coupe de Paris to further her knowledge in fashion. Straight from Korea, Bourie is a brand with quite diverse influences. Simple and feminine cuts, Bourie’s styles are deceivingly naïve and quite… adorable. For Spring/Summer 2016, the Bourie woman is a delicate creature.

NO THOUGHT NEEDED: EDIT SPRING/SUMMER 2016

EDIT was founded, initially, as a small-scale concept store in Hong Kong in 2012 by architect Jacqueline Chak and accountant Genevieve Chew, who discovered that their love of art and fashion was that strong to give up their day jobs. Their picks were — are — impeccable, dominated by super-cool Brit brands with ladylike appeal. So perhaps it was inevitable that when EDIT got around to designing its own collection, it was primed to leap straight to the top of the wish list of any girl that has style. For Spring 2016, EDIT is all about the relaxed, effortless look. A color palette left no shade out, but was done in a great manner.

SEPTEMBER 5, 2015

FIELD OF DREAMS BY DAVID URBANKE – ISSUE 2

Shot by David Urbanke, the Field of Dreams Editorial features model Briley Jones in BEHNO’s Fall/Winter 2015 collection, Daniel Michetti’s Fall/Winter 2015 footwear collection and Freida Rothman jewelry.

EYE OF THE BEHOLDER: PATH’S AUTUMN/WINTER 2015 COLLECTION

Dually based in Hong Kong and Beijing, menswear label PATH presents a reimagined idea of modern, masculine looks. Created by German designer Janine Grosche in 2012, the ESMOD Paris alumni developed vibrant and bright sportswear collections by infusing pieces with futuristic techniques and patterns. She uses experimental approaches, such as digitally printed, wearable art, to make her designs pop, landing her collections in boutiques in major cities around the world including London, Dubai and Tokyo.

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