Milena Konakchieva, winner of this year’s London Fashion Scout Graduate Showcase, concludes her University of Westminster MFA degree with what can only be described as Mary Poppins meets Through the Looking Glass. Inspired by her Bulgarian education in plastics and architecture as well as a visit to a remote upholstery and woodwork workshop, Konakchieva’s debut collection resulted in a superb fashion innovation, something that is becoming scarce in the industry, to say the least.
After working with Rick Owens, Donna Karen and Kit Willow, Australian-based designerJacinta James is launching her namesake label with a seasonal collection available Autumn Winter 2016. James graduated with a Bachelor of Visual Arts from Monash University, specializing in textiles and installation, followed by graduating with Honors with a Bachelor of Fashion Design as the Dux of her graduate year at the prestigious RMIT. She lived in fashion capitals Paris and New York, and has also been shortlisted for the Australian Fashion Foundation Awards two years in a row. For Autumn Winter 2016, Jacinta James takes a romance with storytelling: an interplay of dark and light, hard and soft are shown by ripping apart traditional techniques and focusing on securing her own, unique method of deconstruction that celebrates the construction and exposure of each garment simultaneously.
Premiering at London Fashion Week, designers Helen Clinch and Myra Nigris showcased the Spring/Summer 2016 collection, entitled “Embody,” for their luxury womenswear labelHEMYCA. The black and white monochromatic power suits designed with geometric lines and shapes, crimson red pencil dresses accented with sheer embroideries and floor length satin gowns evoked a timeless elegance and sophistication.
With Paris Fashion Week coming to a close, editors and buyers alike were undoubtedly at peak fashion — and espresso — saturation. However, Allude broke the monotony with their enormous breath of fresh air a.k.a their Spring/Summer 2016 collection. Creative Director Andrea Karg brought out virginal girls in soft silhouettes for a moment of unadulterated purity.
Over the last few seasons, it has grown increasingly difficult for fashion nomads to glaze over the unwavering presence of London Fashion Week. If we were to attribute this sudden peak of interests to one of the great number of emerging brands illuminating the city,Marques’Almeida would undoubtedly serve as the halting force. For their Spring/Summer 2016 show, LVMH prize recipients and design duo Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida, were nostalgic in their nods to the grunge of the mid 90s as well as to collections past.
For their Spring/Summer 2016 collection, Dioralop refined their usual pattern play in favor of refined, architectural basics. At the Fashion Scout showroom at Paris Fashion Week, the Croatian-based duo proved less is more with a predominantly neutral collection. The only pattern of the collection — swirling shades of lavender created by spilling Polaroid chemicals on fabrics before being digitally manipulated — was artfully thought out and beautifully refined.
Dissembled details take a preppy approach in Maria ke FishermanSpring/Summer 2016 collection at Madrid Fashion Week. A plethora of exaggerated rouching came to define the 70s inspired presentation, which featured graphic motifs, plenty of fine pleating and an innovative take on classic feminine silhouettes. This modernity was seen in the likes of subtle mesh inserts on midi length dresses, tangerine smoking robes with chevron cutouts along the hems and simple crop tops with curious details such as scalloped edges.
October 14, 2015
Deux Hommes interviews menswear designer Youchan Chung in this personal feature about innovation, inspiration and intellect.
Shot by Brent Chua for our Global Issue: Korea, this exclusive editorial includes model Keisuke Asano in wardrobe by The-Sirius.
Featuring model Alissa in wardrobe by Julia Quante, the Die Blaue Strecke Editorial was shot by photographer Jennifer Endom
Rules are made to be broken, or so it’s often said. White lies and petty thefts are relatively easy to justify, what about bigger rules — like those of morality or religion which ascribe people to live out perfection? Can they, too, be safely subverted? Singaporean designer Max Tan explores an answer to this question in his Spring/Summer 2016 collection, “Thou Shalt Not,” an allusion to the Ten Commandments. Given these restrictions and the expectations, Tan’s freedom exists in the escape from rules and ideals.
From reptile-embellished stilettos to rustic loafers in lemon and camel, the Daniele MichettiSpring/Summer 2016 collection presented original footwear for every aspect of summer. Michetti was introduced to the structure of footwear through his shoemaking family; later, as a designer for Santoni, he developed his own aesthetic for combining innovative styles with precise handiwork and artisan materials.
A jack of all trades, Massimo Casagrande is extremely involved with his namesake label as both the designer and stylist. But that’s just the start: he also contributes regularly to Rodeoand INDIE Magazine and lectures at the Istituto Marongoni and London College of Fashion. With previous experience at Versace menswear along with such a wide skillset, it’s only natural that Casagrande’s inspiration comes from utilitarianism and functionality of the 1930s and ’50s. Massimo Casagrande’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection includes both mens- and womenswear, using a city map pattern as the primary graphic.
In order to see the light, one must walk through the dark. That is exactly what Belgian Designer and Antwerp Academy Graduate Cedric Jacquemyn intends to do. The designer’s creative sensitivity, nimble vision and strokes of dark underbelly gives way to a special varnish of mysticism for his Spring/Summer 2016 menswear collection. Where there’s a tinge of conscious fragility, there’s also an overtone of soft strength. The clothes are elegantly modular and mobile, due in part to Jacquemyn’s vast experience in darkly, romantic menswear aesthetics.