REWIND: The Week in Review

Women, Men, Fashion
A recent graduate from the Parsons School of Design, Joshua Myrie has already been handpicked by Nike to collaborate with their Air Jordan brand. Even during his undergraduate schooling at the Fashion Institute of Technology, Myrie’s talent was well-recognized — his thesis collection earned him the school’s Critics Choice Award in 2012. Spending time in the studios of Yigal Azrouel, Calvin Klein and Diane Von Furstenberg helped Myrie nurture a personal and eloquent vision for his Parsons MFA graduate collection, “Lexicon 1.” Inspired by the “ideals of dynamic and powerful women in [his] life,” the collection is designed with unflinching strength and futuristic precision.
Anne Sofie Madsen Spring/Summer 2016 offerings at Paris Fashion Week brought a textbook dichotomy of hard and soft. Fabrics were innovative – industrial latex paired cerebrally (but playfully) with airy chiffons while a clear plastic slip covered a knit mini-dress. The collection was one of polarizing voices – tender floating fabrics parallel militia inspired trenches for an aggressive but gentle air. Blue-collar fabrics and detailing (see: linens and denims with brass button closures) met out-of-this-world draping and space-age fabrics (see: caped trousers and sea-anemone detailing on a mesh jersey.) Tousled, woke-up-like-this waves were entrapped by thick Lucite collars. Madsen managed to turn revamped boudoir essentials into utilitarian basics – garters and corseting were collection staples and paired with trenches and parachute pants.
Based in Milan, GALL is a high-impact brand that spears through the center of streetwear culture. Most likely to be worn by those who count Jaden Smith and Yeezy as among their style icons, it’s both current and relevant. Rather than preaching a monochromatic wardrobe, GALL represents a distinct attitude of acceptance, change and creativity. It’s about understanding one’s own vices without any remorse and moving forward in spite of them. A couple both romantically and in business, Justin and Chiara initially started GALL with a simple, tailored t-shirt. From there, it began to take momentum and emerged with complete men’s and women’s lines.

Milena Konakchieva, winner of this year’s London Fashion Scout Graduate Showcase, concludes her University of Westminster MFA degree with what can only be described as Mary Poppins meets Through the Looking Glass. Inspired by her Bulgarian education in plastics and architecture as well as a visit to a remote upholstery and woodwork workshop, Konakchieva’s debut collection resulted in a superb fashion innovation, something that is becoming scarce in the industry, to say the least.

Art In Proximity: Jacinta James Autumn/Winter 2016

After working with Rick Owens, Donna Karen and Kit Willow, Australian-based designerJacinta James is launching her namesake label with a seasonal collection available Autumn Winter 2016. James graduated with a Bachelor of Visual Arts from Monash University, specializing in textiles and installation, followed by graduating with Honors with a Bachelor of Fashion Design as the Dux of her graduate year at the prestigious RMIT. She lived in fashion capitals Paris and New York, and has also been shortlisted for the Australian Fashion Foundation Awards two years in a row. For Autumn Winter 2016, Jacinta James takes a romance with storytelling: an interplay of dark and light, hard and soft are shown by ripping apart traditional techniques and focusing on securing her own, unique method of deconstruction that celebrates the construction and exposure of each garment simultaneously.

HEMYCA Spring/Summer 2016 Collection LFW

Premiering at London Fashion Week, designers Helen Clinch and Myra Nigris showcased the Spring/Summer 2016 collection, entitled “Embody,” for their luxury womenswear labelHEMYCA. The black and white monochromatic power suits designed with geometric lines and shapes, crimson red pencil dresses accented with sheer embroideries and floor length satin gowns evoked a timeless elegance and sophistication.

Life Is But A Dream: Allude Spring/Summer 2016 Collection PFW

With Paris Fashion Week coming to a close, editors and buyers alike were undoubtedly at peak fashion — and espresso — saturation. However, Allude broke the monotony with their enormous breath of fresh air a.k.a their Spring/Summer 2016 collection. Creative Director Andrea Karg brought out virginal girls in soft silhouettes for a moment of unadulterated purity.

Marques’Almeida Spring/Summer 2016 Collection LFW

Over the last few seasons, it has grown increasingly difficult for fashion nomads to glaze over the unwavering presence of London Fashion Week. If we were to attribute this sudden peak of interests to one of the great number of emerging brands illuminating the city,Marques’Almeida would undoubtedly serve as the halting force. For their Spring/Summer 2016 show, LVMH prize recipients and design duo Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida, were nostalgic in their nods to the grunge of the mid 90s as well as to collections past.

Piece by Piece: Dioralop Spring/Summer 2016 Collection

For their Spring/Summer 2016 collection, Dioralop refined their usual pattern play in favor of refined, architectural basics. At the Fashion Scout showroom at Paris Fashion Week, the Croatian-based duo proved less is more with a predominantly neutral collection. The only pattern of the collection — swirling shades of lavender created by spilling Polaroid chemicals on fabrics before being digitally manipulated — was artfully thought out and beautifully refined.

Maria ke Fisherman Spring/Summer 2016 Collection

Dissembled details take a preppy approach in Maria ke FishermanSpring/Summer 2016 collection at Madrid Fashion Week. A plethora of exaggerated rouching came to define the 70s inspired presentation, which featured graphic motifs, plenty of fine pleating and an innovative take on classic feminine silhouettes. This modernity was seen in the likes of subtle mesh inserts on midi length dresses, tangerine smoking robes with chevron cutouts along the hems and simple crop tops with curious details such as scalloped edges.

October 14, 2015

A Chat With Younchan Chung of The-Sirius

Deux Hommes interviews menswear designer Youchan Chung in this personal feature about innovation, inspiration and intellect.

Sirius Aspirations by Brent Chua

Shot by Brent Chua for our Global Issue: Korea, this exclusive editorial includes model Keisuke Asano in wardrobe by The-Sirius.

Die Blaue Strecke by Jennifer Endom

Featuring model Alissa in wardrobe by Julia Quante, the Die Blaue Strecke Editorial was shot by photographer Jennifer Endom

A Standard Escapee: Max.Tan Spring/Summer 2016 Collection

Rules are made to be broken, or so it’s often said. White lies and petty thefts are relatively easy to justify, what about bigger rules — like those of morality or religion which ascribe people to live out perfection? Can they, too, be safely subverted? Singaporean designer Max Tan explores an answer to this question in his Spring/Summer 2016 collection, “Thou Shalt Not,” an allusion to the Ten Commandments. Given these restrictions and the expectations, Tan’s freedom exists in the escape from rules and ideals.

Flirtatious Artisan: Daniele Michetti Spring/Summer 2016 Collection

From reptile-embellished stilettos to rustic loafers in lemon and camel, the Daniele MichettiSpring/Summer 2016 collection presented original footwear for every aspect of summer. Michetti was introduced to the structure of footwear through his shoemaking family; later, as a designer for Santoni, he developed his own aesthetic for combining innovative styles with precise handiwork and artisan materials.

Make Yourself Useful: Massimo Casagrande Spring/Summer 2016

A jack of all trades, Massimo Casagrande is extremely involved with his namesake label as both the designer and stylist. But that’s just the start: he also contributes regularly to Rodeoand INDIE Magazine and lectures at the Istituto Marongoni and London College of Fashion. With previous experience at Versace menswear along with such a wide skillset, it’s only natural that Casagrande’s inspiration comes from utilitarianism and functionality of the 1930s and ’50s. Massimo Casagrande’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection includes both mens- and womenswear, using a city map pattern as the primary graphic.

Into The Dark: Cedric Jacquemyn Spring/Summer 2016 Collection

In order to see the light, one must walk through the dark. That is exactly what Belgian Designer and Antwerp Academy Graduate Cedric Jacquemyn intends to do. The designer’s creative sensitivity, nimble vision and strokes of dark underbelly gives way to a special varnish of mysticism for his Spring/Summer 2016 menswear collection. Where there’s a tinge of conscious fragility, there’s also an overtone of soft strength. The clothes are elegantly modular and mobile, due in part to Jacquemyn’s vast experience in darkly, romantic menswear aesthetics.

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