South Korean designer Byungmun Seo once again takes his unconventional construction signature usage and injects it into his Fall/Winter 2016 collection at Pitti Uomo 89. Entitled “Error In Persona,” Byungmun contemplates different methods of research by breaking the rules, all while holding onto the original concept. It is through errors that Byungmun creates a new meaning and characteristic for the collection. Staying true to his monochromatic palette, with blue being the main tone and then joined by olive tones, gray, white and black with silhouettes being oversized (no surprise here).
The idea of error with the juxtaposition of diverse structures contrasts with materials, which is then combined into the wares. A bomber jacket consisting of forest green and brown tones is worn over an olive knit button-up with elongated sleeves and is paired with denim pants that feature curved zipper details that continue down to the hem. Similar concepts are seen throughout the collection, where large, chunky jackets that are mixed media (think denim, wool and fur) are layered over chunky knits. One of the best men’s looks was a leather coat with double zipper detailing for a closure as well as exaggerated on the sleeves was in a beautiful midnight blue. Worn over a white knit with an extreme cowl-neck and fitted trousers, this is Byungmun Seo at his best: a master of proportion.
While the menswear was great, the spotlight was truly on the ladies: an olive green long coat featured vented streamer-like details on the back in a lighter tone, making way for a beautiful contrast and fine tailoring. A very exaggerated cap-sleeve turtleneck knit cut at such an angle that it almost ends in an elongated triangle was layered over a top that had winter-like details (think padded) and a double layered, flared skirt – a silhouette one never thought possible. Separates were also there in the form of tailored tops and denim (seen in men’ and women’s), and was something different from prior collections. Slicing, dicing and challenging the constraints of material and proportion of what is acceptable in garment play, Byungmun Seo gives us something unique and unexpected through the gift of flaw.