Boris Bidjan Saberi, the King of avant-garde, luxury design, stays true to his quest of fine tailoring for his Fall Winter 2016 collection. Saberi explores his oeuvre in depth with a minimalist, dystopian Sci-Fi aesthetic that is accompanied by his usual military influences.
Functionality takes center stage this season, with parachute and sky-diving gear reincarnated into something more innovative for the Saberi wearer of today: the use of volume is prevalent in the short-sleeve, long zip-neck pieces. Perpendicular lines give a minimal feel, bringing a strong focus to the pattern and detail presented before us. All of this is drawn together with a neutral color palette dominated by dirty whites, grays and blacks that allow Saberi to showcase his experimental finishes.
Fabrics were indeed airy, and of course were complimented by Saberi’s trademark house-tanned skins. Horse, kangaroo, springbok and yak leathers were all noted. Sleeves zipped partially off rumpled parkas and gigantic shearlings and dangled freely, representing the freedom that one experiences due to gravity. Furthering skydiver references, hidden shoulder straps were used on tailored coats and parkas, which allowed Saberi to further his experimentation with layers and length. It was a balancing act of contrasting weights of fabric. Drop crotch trousers that were oversized were paired with coats that were lined in merino shearling wool and pony skin jackets.
Highlights and quirks included the back’s of bomber jackets. Bunched up, it was almost equivalent to blinds. A fanny-like waist pack crafted from leather was another great piece, and felt quite masculine as well as practical. But what ties the looks together? Thin-frame sunglasses (in two variations) that are similar to the shape of aviators, were made in a collaboration with Werkstatt München. Silver metal headbands were another added touch. It was dark, sharp and blended a little bit of Saberi’s streetstyle with innovation. This is Boris Bidjan Saberi at his best: an unforgiving sartorial rigor that makes anyone ready and willing to jump.