There was something about the restricted structuring of an army cavalry coat that struck a chord with Raimond Berthold. For his Spring/Summer 2017 collection at London Collections Mens, the Austrian designer took to investigating how the disciplined structure can be altered – be it by obstructing the silhouette or amplifying the volume.
On the other end of the timeline, Berthold also noted Anish Kapoor’s Ascenscion (Red) as a strong aesthetic influence. The swirling smokey installation was channeled into the seemingly ascending stature of Berthold’s silhouettes. Blocked colors and fabrics broke up utilitarian separates, like tunics, wide-leg trousers, and cardigans. A pairing of tense technical fabrics were offset by light, airy cottons and linens. Contrast striped shirts and long knit jackets were fluid in fit, while technical leathers and asymmetrical jackets were bold.
It was a collection that drove to control: although pieces were light as a feather, Berthold showed of subverted control of the collection. He explored bouyancy, volume, and shape of each piece to create a collection of draped and folded pieces with a surprisingly formal air. Utilitarian, but explorative.