The Utilitarian Space Suit: Sankuanz Spring/Summer 2017 Paris

Men, Fashion, Runway

Celebrating his second time presenting during Paris Fashion Week, designer Shangguan Zhe has collaborated with artist Xu Zhen to explore the concept of “Cosmological Religion.”  Both designers aspired to study their own system of codes and culture between fashion design and conceptual art. Set against a backdrop of stark-white, cathedral-like tents, the Spring/Summer 2017 collection further explored Zhe’s signature utilitarian wares, this season opting to mix military uniforms with hip-hop culture and an array of details pulled from the NASA archives.

From embroidered badges to astronaut suit influences, this now “space pop culture” resulted in several high-tech materials (such as transparent Cuben Fiber, tape and golden emergency blankets) and long, oversized silhouettes (such as trench coats and aviator jumpsuits). Outerwear, again, was a strong point of focus.

Unlike SANKUANZ’s Fall/Winter collection, which had incorporated bright colors and bold custom prints, this season doesn’t stray too far from the monochromatic shades of black and white; however, this side of Shangguan Zhe really shows off his talent for utility. Unlike other collections during Paris Fashion Week that rarely stray from street style influences, this collection feels authentic to the very end; and instead of being an exhausting repeat of what has already been shown time and time again, this season was a refreshing mix of collaboration, creativity and non-stop favorites.

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