In a digital age that equates overexposed skin to sex appeal, Berlin-based designer Michael Sontag continues to make a strong case for the allure of swaddled figures. His silky, flowing garments ripple across the body with a sense of coy flirtatiousness. In the case of the designer, the 26-year-old German native studied at Weissensee Art Academy Berlin and shot to fame after Suzy Menkes’ praised his debut 2009 runway show.
The major players in Sontag’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection were hip-hugging pencil skirts, paired with contrast bras and topped with oversized coats. Focusing on fabric rather than embellishments, Sontag developed his outerwear by stripping trench and pea coats of buttons and buckles. The top layer was flayed open to reveal color-blocked trousers and for men, button downs and cropped jackets. The layering was whimsical when done in glittering black or white mesh, a coquettish attempt to cover the undergarments beneath. Fringe — ribbon like in its thickness and material — often accented the mesh pieces down the sides and middle. Sontag, a fan of asymmetry, incorporated it into the collection’s toga-like gowns. Jewel-toned and silky, it all felt natural and feminine. Yet there was a slight change in the nature of the brand. Shorter hemlines and sporty clogs suggest Sontag is shifting from slinky silhouettes to something a little more contemporary and urban. As a designer who wants to produce what people are still searching for in fashion, he can only evolve and grow further.