Marina_H-SS17-16

Long, Hot, Summer: Marina Hoermanseder Spring/Summer 2017

Women, Runway

This season, Marina Hoermanseder dreamed herself away to the Southern shores. The Berlin-based designer’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection found French Riviera staples – oxford boyfriend shirts, palazzo pants, and tennis skirts complete in seafaring shades of pinstripe and pale blue. On knee-skimming dresses and noble pants, butterflies, pearls, and flowers were adorned. But there was a hint of edge to the springtime fantasy. Playing off the floral patterns and country-club dresses were structured corsets and lacquered leather. Over an oxford-collar pantsuit, in a robin’s egg blue came a constricting corset. To top off a cream colored trouser and knit top, a leather choker bound the model’s neck. The final look – a bejeweled dress that not only hugs the body, but contorts it to Jessica-Rabbit-esque proportions through the designer’s use of lacquered leather. This all draws back to her fascination with fetish. Over the years, Hoermanseder has been fascinating with uniting slender silhouettes with sharp elements of fetishism. Using 18th century orthopedic corsets as reference, she creates an element of naughty playfulness to the idea of a summer dress.

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