Long-time collaborators Kirk Millar and Sam Linder injected a hint of madness into their brand Linder’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection at New York Fashion Week: Mens. As per the standard of the past few collections, the designers seek to break down what menswear really is, taking a sledge hammer traditional gender notions: integrating tight cropped wife beaters and women’s lingerie into their regular offerings. They choose pieces that put the male body on display in a way usually reserved for that of the female body – shirts are tucked in tight to exemplify the waist and midriff is revealed. Traditional white button-up oxfords were slit right above the navel, exposing inches of skin before the start of the trousers. Cardigans buttoned asymmetrically up, revealing a flash of cleavage. Metals were integrated through larger crosses that adorned bare chests, and chains that dangled from denim culottes. It was a collection that hummed in and out of any specific gender construct – sultry, but tough. Spontaneous, but calculated.