Noirer’s Fall/Winter 2016 collection lead us away from the low-key basics that we have fallen for in the past seasons, leading us instead to suited separates in innovative fabrics.
In the Korean label’s past few seasons, the brand has kept it’s design aesthetic synonymous with it’s name. Meaning, their previous two collections were almost entirely black. This season, the brand big adieu to the strong street wear undertones they have played with in the past and fell down the rabbit hole. Suit separates became the focal point, with light knit and heavy woolen trousers becoming mainstays from look to look. Round shoulder and traditionally structured overcoats were fit for any gentleman of the past eighty decades.
There was a subtle blurring of the lines between the brands old love of casual fits and their new found love of old-school tailoring. On trench coats, usual metal studding was switched out for heavy metal hardware. On a tight-fitting, peak collar waistcoat and matching trousers, edges were frayed so strings hung inched beyond the hems. Another dapper fitting waistcoat was paired with layered t-shirts, that would be more at home on Kanye West than they would a suited gent. Topcoats had patchwork sewn together as if it was straight from an early Picasso sketchbook.
It was a new direction for the brand. The same exemplary tailoring that first caught our eye reigned supreme, but silhouettes were more explorative in direction.