Invites to Phoebe English’s seasonal presentations are constantly some of the most coveted of London Fashion Week. As much an art installation as it is utilitarian, her sets have transformed the way in which we interact within the presentation experience, and her designs always tend to tilt more toward the conceptual (yet still wearable) side of the fashion spectrum – and that’s exactly why we love her.
This season she was inspired to develop seven distinct emotions, or characters, that happened in the span of seven days – the resilient archer, the weeping water bearer, the inquisitive inquirer, the deceitful smuggler, the bellowing chanter, the waiting strangler and the losing mourner – for a collection quite unlike we’ve seen from her in the past.
In heroic draping, twisted fabrics and tiered tulle, each model appeared stoic yet in character, while the garments were rough yet refined in an almost tarnished yet wholesome elegance. This season in particular was one of the most contemplative of recent collections; the garments were stunning, but the overall impact was emotional and easily stood out amongst a week packed full of strong collections.