There’s some sort of magic in Anne Sofie Madsen’s ability to string together seemingly bits and pieces from her scrap room to create a cohesive, poignant collection. For the Dutch designer’s Spring/Summer 2017 offerings, shown at Paris Fashion Week.
Crisp ruffles blouses were given the deconstructed treatment – keeping the feminine wiles of a traditional ruffled blouse, but given a sharp edge with asymmetrical draping and unhemmed finishings. One standout piece – a deconstructivist jacket made from patches of leather, illustrated cotton and sharper wools, felt almost cubist in design, from the patchwork construction to the oversized, mutton sleeve finishings. Crisp suiting basics (think woolen skirts and two piece suits) were given the Madsen touch – think corseted riffs on traditional two-piece suits and mini-skirts made of sharp wool. A few more traditional suits were given an oversized take – with oversized shoulders and longer cuts on the jacket, and flared or car wash cuts on the pant. Bondage elements finished off the collection, from subtle corsets paired with more fluid silhouettes to chain detailing on looser silhouettes. And of course, patent chaps with extra buckling gave the collection that extra oomph of spice. It was a chaotic collection of ideas; but one that was Madsen’s unique blend of cheekiness.