Marina Hoermanseder, known for her leather-sculpted flowers and latex constructions, holds a special place in my heart as one of very few designers who can elevate womenswear to new, soaring and unpredictable heights. In the sphere of high-fashion, womenswear can feel somewhat diluted with the emergence of the unisex and avant-garde (or repetitive as is in the case of luxury eveningwear). And while it’s exciting to see designers redefining conventional gender codes, Hoermanseder’s staunch fixation on propelling her own fifille aesthetic is laudable.
Relative to the Berlinese designer’s previous seasons, her Spring/Summer 2017 campaign resonated with stronger commercial appeal. Her models dined with photogenic nonchalance by a lush greenhouse, their pastel ensembles the embodiment of young femininity. Navigating her own niche brand of luxury fashion, there were traces of Hoermansder’s fascination with orthopedics: namely the fitted bustiers with belt closures and the latex showstopper with flitting butterflies. Though the shirt-dresses and quilted jackets were cute, Hoermanseder does best when honest to her fanciful imagination. The signature floral appliques that we know so well evolved this time to include gem-encrusted variations and an open-back top bedecked with fiery pearls. Always a personal treat during the womenswear season, Hoermanseder’s joie de vivre is inimitable and unrivaled.