Caroline Kummelstedt mastered the paradox of piling on layers of clothing to pile up on sex appeal in her Fall/Winter 2016 collection. Committed to androgynous forms, Kummelstedt proves attractiveness does not belong to a particular gender nor does talent have an age minimum. The Swedish-born designer decided to plunge into the fashion world head-first at the same time she was accepted to Brown University. After declining the university’s offer, she has since founded her namesake brand in 2012, lived in Milan and Paris and will have her latest collection stocked globally. High risks certainly merit high rewards.
Her Fall/Winter 2016 collection breaks just as many conventions by pairing seemingly antagonistic colors. Yellow zippers line a black pantsuit like traffic stripes. An orange patch pops against a baby blue crew neck. Blocking with two shades of indigo, the wide-legged frayed jeans are so relevant. It’s in the silhouettes that Kummelstedt grounds her genderless forms. Oversized outerwear, from a red trench to a shearling jacket or leather moto, is meant to swaddle any identity. Over-the-knee boots convert a pink zippered skirt from a feminine symbol to a mere layering device. Swipes of paint across the eyebrows are the final step in erasing physical labels and embracing self-definition.