Like filmmaker Wes Anderson or painter Jackson Pollock, the best thing about Katherine Mavridis’s work is that it’s instantly recognizable as her own. I reviewed her graduate collection for Parson’s more than a year ago and still remember her iconic design approach to this day. Known for coiling ropes into cocoon-like sweaters and coats, the neophytic talent will soon have her Spring/Summer 2017 capsule collection exclusively stocked at Dover Street Market New York and Dover Street Market Ginza — a fantastic segue into the international market.
Compared to her previous collection, Mavridis has focused solely on her coiling technique, abandoning the sheer paneling and different textures seen in her graduate work. She instead chose to concentrate and embrace the voluminous, tube-like shapes that naturally result from her method of design. Expanding into shades of beige and black, the emphasis was still on construction rather than surface-level applique or pattern. This collection also saw the addition of ingenious accessories: headgear and handbags all made from the same coiled layers of rope (some a bit more extreme than others).
Mavridis’s SS17 capsule feels equally at home on the pages of an editorial spread or behind glass in an art exhibition. Embodying the less commercial side of fashion’s creativity, it’ll be an exciting journey watching her evolve and progress as a designer over the forthcoming years. Speaking frankly, her talent is in a league all its own.