At first glance, the Yohanix Fall/Winter 2017 collection appeared all-over-the-place: there didn’t seem to be a synthesis of concept, reference or muse. Army green jackets looked dissonant next to metallic lamé, as did the sheer peacock-embroidered skirt and the accompanying quilted jacket. But as the collection progressed, it became clear that we had spoken too soon. Designer Yohan Kim really proved his worth when he produced one of the most beautiful pieces of outerwear we’ve seen yet out of NYFW. The metallic chartreuse jacket with navy florals was an absolute knockout — the boxy shape paired with a subtle iridescence and painterly motif, while the ruffled collar substituted for typical ribbing. A departure from his previous SS17 season which felt more raw and less refined, this new trajectory that Kim is taking with Yohanix is definitely one to keep tabs on.