Back to Black: RICOSTRU Fall/Winter 2017 MFW

Runway, Women, Collections, Runway

A derivative of the word, “reconstruction,” RICOSTRU is a Chinese brand based in Guangzhou that encompasses Manchit Au and her team of designers. At MFW, we saw a Fall/Winter 2017 runway predominated by neutral colors in unexpected materials. Leather and smoky, translucent vinyl were both memorable, giving way to a dreamy, iridescent organza at the show’s closing. Shapes were blocky and assertively angled, opting to envelope the body in eye-catching textures rather than showcasing it front and center. The velvet cape with its exaggerated funnelneck was intriguing, if not a bit theatrical. Au’s drop-shouldered coat in gunmetal with wide lapels were better evidence of her skill and design. With reconstruction at the core of the RICOSTRU brand, it’s no surprise that most of the silhouettes felt a bit unusual. That’s the challenge for a brand like this one: to reconstruct a collection that feels new but is still palatable to the eye. Nonetheless, it’s a challenge Au is qualified to tackle head on, in this collection and all those forthcoming.

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