Season after season, Anne Sofie Madsen has topped my list of highlights of Paris Fashion Week. I’ve often wondered why – is it her exploration of innovative tailoring? Is it her delicious way of juxtaposing between hyper-feminism and a kind of ungendered, utilitarian uniform? It may be because years ago, Madsen’s runway presentation was my first ever show at Paris Fashion Week, when I was still wide-eyed and bushy tailed. But nevertheless, years later, here I am, just as enamored with the Danish designer’s most recent collection, shown at Paris Fashion Week.
Madsen’s Fall/Winter 2017 collection was a look to the future and the past. Ruffles were ever-present, ranging for more subtle (finishing the hem of a puffer dress) to more extravagant (overwhelming the silhouette of a delicate chiffon dress). Outerwear was another home run, and has been for many collections in her ouevre, this season, incarnating in the form of an oversized trench coat with chain detailing, luscious oversized biker jackets complete with fur colalrs and laced sleeves, and a shimmering gilded overcoat that had been slit and slashes into all ways. There was also a slew of overly-feminine looks: ranging in Prince-approved ruffled tops to flowing tweed skirts. Point-toed booties were even finished in a psuedo-paper mache print of a newspaper, a sort of nod to what’s to come and what she has done.