Comparable to an amazing movie trailer or hors d’oeuvre, we’re eager to introduce a sort of preview to the wonderful works of Laura Searle to the Young Blood family. Eye-catching and the epitome of creative craftsmanship, her label Jingüo released its first and only collection so far titled, “Litost,” as one of the finalists for Mercedes Benz Fashion Week China. Litost is an unnervingly emotional Czech concept that conveys the pain a person feels at the realization of their own misery. Though certainly a heavy topic, Searle chose to illustrate this through a juxtaposition of visual weight and lightness in both fabric and silhouette.
Industrial materials, like bubble-wrap and heavy felt, were particularly influential in Searle’s capsule collection. The stiff materials made it possible for the Barcelona designer to construct the oversized, dome-like shapes across capes, jackets and coats. Like a strange chrysalis, alternating layers of charcoal felt masked the body in a similar fashion to the translucent PVC frock. With Lego-blocked surfaces and streaks of cobalt, this Jingüo collection seemed to highlight a fantastical character in Searle’s mind. And though completely eccentric and intriguing, this character is a muse we’re not likely to see again for some time.
Taking a hiatus from Jingüo, Searle has recently spent time at Viktor & Rolf with plans to debut a new project titled L’EGSQERE in the pipeline. Once June rolls around, she and her partner/co-designer Nadia Montero, will present L’EGSQERE at FASHIONCLASH in Maastricht. While we don’t want to spoil anything, be sure to expect the same level of experimental fashion applied to classic shirting.