Last season saw San Francisco-based designer Camelia Skikos tackle the topic of globalization and cultural collision. A fantastic introduction to Skikos’s womenswear and contemporary stylings, the Autumn/Winter 2017 agenda has now progressed to art and the works of Anish Kapoor. Perhaps best known for his metallic sculpture Cloud Gate in Chicago, Skikos interpreted the artist’s emphasis on sensory stimulation in her own work through shape and varied textiles appealing to sight and touch.
Rounded sleeves in cropped jackets are a direct reference to the elliptical curves of Cloud Gate. It was also a reminder of her previous Spring/Summer collection which featured similar silhouettes. As a designer, Skikos has always been fond of understanding and highlighting the interactivity between clothes and its wearer. Elbow cut-outs and pleated sleeves underscored this concept, allowing for unrestricted mobility in the arm. Full-skirted frocks layered over turtlenecks were nothing groundbreaking, but the contrast between the knit bouclé and woven materials provided the visual intrigue and were fitting for the impending seasons to come. So far, it seems Skikos is a designer that speaks in subtleties. Between the jacquard patterns and the minutiae of something like a Mandarin collar shirt, she’s one that has a lot to say if we only took a moment to stop, look and listen.