Though Alessandro Trincone made his American debut last season at VFiles, we’re thrilled to make his acquaintance and to add him to our Young Blood line-up. Who better to represent this segment than a designer that routinely includes exaggeration and spectacle in his design repertoire? The young Italian talent has no qualms when it comes to designing between typical gender lines and convention. Dresses, gowns and in this season, bows, are all fair game for Trincone’s broody boys.
Translated from Italian, this collection titled “Hug Me (Abbracciami),” is dedicated to Trincone’s stoic father. He was by all means the classic Italian man, the stone-faced sort who commanded his family with authority. The designer confessed, however, that his paternal relationship was void of affection and strained in part by his open homosexuality and career decision — all of which became points of contention. Luckily though, Trincone ends this story on a positive note; the two have reconciled their differences and are now closer than ever.
For Trincone, the prolific use of knotted bows were symbolic of a union between he and his father. Like the two separate ends of a ribbon, they came back together and are steadfast in their newfound relationship. However, interpreting this from a design standpoint, it also expressed Trincone’s recurring fascination with all things Japonica. Last season saw this inclination manifested through paper parasols and obi sashes. For this Fall/Winter 2017 season, the copious amounts of bows and ruffles seemed like a nod to Japan’s maximal Decora fashion subculture. It’s a sophisticated but whimsical re-interpretation of Decora culture’s garish excess and extravagance . Silk chiffon, glittering metallics and primrose pleats were flagrant violations to menswear norms, but what does that matter to progressive creativity. This upcoming season, Trincone has continued to prove himself as an enchanting designer. His saccharine collection was a visual treat, reinforced even more so by the endearing disclosure of father-son sentiment.